Keeping sick or malformed birds is discouraged. To fight well or to breed healthy game fowl you must start with the best quality birds you
can afford. Birds MUST be immunized according to the veterinary recommendations for
your area. Most local poultry feeds supply stores around the world can help you develop
a vaccine program. I have posted my vaccine program and information on the vaccines on my website. Like all breeders and cockers I too have had birds that I have purchased
as stags die suddenly when they reach 18 months old and also those beautiful cocks that get tired and are gasping for air after one buckle when sparring. I will not tell you why these happened as you must study and learn about game fowl diseases and vaccines here
but both conditions would have been averted by vaccinating the game fowl as chicks. Just as vaccines protect your birds from viruses and most diseases, delousing, deworming and bacterial flushing according to routine will eliminate those parasites that will steal your game fowls stamina and good health. Feeds during the ranging period are a Super conditioning grain mixture. I supplement the natural grains with water soluble vitamins daily, and vitamin B with iron injections twice monthly
can afford. Birds MUST be immunized according to the veterinary recommendations for
your area. Most local poultry feeds supply stores around the world can help you develop
a vaccine program. I have posted my vaccine program and information on the vaccines on my website. Like all breeders and cockers I too have had birds that I have purchased
as stags die suddenly when they reach 18 months old and also those beautiful cocks that get tired and are gasping for air after one buckle when sparring. I will not tell you why these happened as you must study and learn about game fowl diseases and vaccines here
but both conditions would have been averted by vaccinating the game fowl as chicks. Just as vaccines protect your birds from viruses and most diseases, delousing, deworming and bacterial flushing according to routine will eliminate those parasites that will steal your game fowls stamina and good health. Feeds during the ranging period are a Super conditioning grain mixture. I supplement the natural grains with water soluble vitamins daily, and vitamin B with iron injections twice monthly
Conditioning Versus Pointing
Conditioning is a broad term and I choose to be more specific in this area. As gamefowlbreeder and cock fighter I employ natural conditioning for Battle Stags, Battle Cocks, and Brood Stock differently. Natural conditioning is where I try to use natural products and vitamin supplements to get the game fowl into excellent physical and mental condition. My natural conditioning method is not complicated or unique in the game fowl world. I will try to explain each method after I explain a bit about Pointing.
Pointing is that final physical and mental preparation usually beginning 36 hours before the fight or sabong. During the Pointing period we monitor their foods and water, institute some form of carbohydrate loading to augment their muscular performance and monitor their weight. We are also careful to give them much rest during this period. I do not advocate using other than vitamin B-12, B-complex like Sagupaans Complexor 3000 and water soluble vitamins and electrolytes when Pointing your birds. Personally, Using steroids, or hormone supplements and of course the ever famous, guaranteed to make your birds win, “Kipuku” elixir injectable to use 2 hours before the fight will eventually result in disasterous results. My advice….. Keep it natural! Keep it real!
Inject the Broodstock against NCD, IB, IBD, and FOWL POX before breeding. Do a deworm 7 – 9 days before putting the Brooder. Take a bath of mite free shampoo after deworming. Shave the butt of male and female to make sure that the cells will come inside. Do a bacterial flushing in 3 days to make sure that the cock has no any kind of diseases. Give Selectrogen Electrolytes with vitamins and minerals and B50 Forten every day. Give the Male and Female of .5ml B Complex with Iron. Give vitamin E gel capsule once a week for brooder and cock. Give 2 parts of breeder pellets and 1 part hiprotein derby pellets during the priming.
Conditioning of Broodstock While Breeding. Feed Broodhens Breeder Pellets 2 Parts mixed with Derby conditioner 1 Part. Feed Broodcocks a Hi-Protein derby pellets 1 part mixed with derby conditioner. Feed volume about 30 – 35 grams per feeding 2 times daily and separate the male from the females when feeding. Administer mixed electrolytes with multivitamins and minerals in water Daily. Give Sagupaan B50 Forten anti-stress every other day. Inject the Broodcock with 5ccinjectible iron supplement every 15 days.
Pointing is that final physical and mental preparation usually beginning 36 hours before the fight or sabong. During the Pointing period we monitor their foods and water, institute some form of carbohydrate loading to augment their muscular performance and monitor their weight. We are also careful to give them much rest during this period. I do not advocate using other than vitamin B-12, B-complex like Sagupaans Complexor 3000 and water soluble vitamins and electrolytes when Pointing your birds. Personally, Using steroids, or hormone supplements and of course the ever famous, guaranteed to make your birds win, “Kipuku” elixir injectable to use 2 hours before the fight will eventually result in disasterous results. My advice….. Keep it natural! Keep it real!
Conditioning of Broodstock While Breeding. Feed Broodhens Breeder Pellets 2 Parts mixed with Derby conditioner 1 Part. Feed Broodcocks a Hi-Protein derby pellets 1 part mixed with derby conditioner. Feed volume about 30 – 35 grams per feeding 2 times daily and separate the male from the females when feeding. Administer mixed electrolytes with multivitamins and minerals in water Daily. Give Sagupaan B50 Forten anti-stress every other day. Inject the Broodcock with 5ccinjectible iron supplement every 15 days.
Battle Stag conditioning requires more of your attention than cocks as they are still young and are still prone to injury. At 3 to 4 months they are still eating Stag Developer and at this time we introduce a mature hen into their area to help spur their maturity. The presence of hens seem to calm them down also. At 5 months old I move them to flypens, with a roosting height of 5 feet that I gradually raise to 7 feet to allow the exercise. Their ranging areas have roosts at 4 feet. Generally I keep them in the fly pen with the hen close by every other week then the in between week they are in a scratch box 1 hour a day. As they mature they will become cocky so that is the time to cord the stag with a pali just longer than the pali for cocks. Exercises for stags are not recommended and the extra cord will give them extra room to roam. When corded I switch them to conditioning grains. By the time they are going to the fly pens I am giving them 75% Stag Developer and 25% Grains, The next week 50-50% and the third week 25% Stag Developer and 75% grains. Once corded they are feed full Developer Grains. I administer vitamin B-complex like Sagupaans Complexor 3000 weekly to the stags at 3ml per bird and add multivitamins to their water. When training for a Stag Derby I do not exercise them just rotate them between the Flypen at 3 days a week and Scratch Box also 3 times a week. I will spar them twice during this 21 day natural conditioning period but one buckle only and the buckle lasts only 30 seconds. For feed during the 21 day fight conditioning period we switch to a high protein derby conditioner To enhance their scratching exercise and to help us monitor their moisture content in the mornings we feed dry in the morning and wet in the evening. During our 36 hour pointing period we do carboloading of our Battle Stags
Originally Posted by GG Crasher
simply lang sa akin:
simply lang sa akin:
Tablets:
Day 1-20
1/4 centrum 1/4 aminoplex tablets administer everyday after the exercise/practis
Day 21
1/4 centrum 1/4 aminoplex tablets administer after morning feed
Injectable
day 1, 7, & 15
complexor 3000 + Bexan XP (0.3 + 0.2ml)
day 18
complexor 3000 + respigen 15 (0.3 + 0.2ml) administer between 7-8pm start keeping
Ang susi sa matagumpay na pagsasabong ay ang wastong pagpili. Batayan sa pagpili:
Unahin mga konkretong katangian. Ang mga konkretong katangian ay ang bloodline o linyada; pagpapalaki; at ganda ng pisikal na anyo.
Unahin ang mga konkretong katangian dahil hindi na ma-iiba ang mga ito hanggang sa araw ng laban, samantalang ang kagalingan sa pakikipaglaban ay paibaiba,depende sa galing ng kalaban o sa kundisyon ng ating manok.
complexor 3000 + respigen 15 (0.3 + 0.2ml) administer between 7-8pm start keeping
day 19, 20, & 21 give 1 dropper of honey bee every after feeding (am/pm)
day 21
complexor 3000 + respigen 15 (0.2 + 0.3ml) administer between 3-4am on the day of the fight
day 21
complexor 3000 + respigen 15 (0.2 + 0.3ml) administer between 3-4am on the day of the fight
There are many models for battle conditioning Bullstags and Cocks for the arena and most will follow a 35, 28 or 21 day regimen. I follow a 21 day routine of deworming, delousing, bacterial flushing, sparring, supplementing vitamins, scratching exercises, flypen exercising and reducing moisture content in the birds. Feeds during our 21 day conditioning keep are Sagupaans derby conditioners Winning Line mixed equally with their Ready To Fight packaged feed. This is my choice feed for our cocks here in Luzon and there are many other good brands and feeds available. Choose a brand and blend that conditions your birds at your location. To enhance their scratching exercise and to help us monitor their moisture content in the mornings we feed dry in the morning and wet in the evening. During our 36 hour pointing period we do carboloading of our Battle Stags.
Other tips:
Sa pagmamanok, ang pinakamahalagang aspeto ay ang paglalaban. Sa paglalaban kasi natin malalaman kung anong uri ng manok ang ating dapat alagaan, palakihin, o palahiin. Ang payo natin sa mga baguhan ay pagaralan muna ang aspeto ng paglalaban. Dapat alam na natin kung anong uri ng mga manok ang nagpapanalo para ang mga ito ang ating alagaan, o gawing palahian. Paano tayo makakapagpalabas ng magaling at magandang manok sa ating pagpalahi kung dinaman natin alam kung ano ang manok na magaling at maganda.
Sa paglalaban ay may iba’t-ibang bagay na dapat pagaralan. Una dito ay ang pagpili. Magtatalakay tayo ngayon ng tatlong mahalagan gbagay sa paglalaban. Meron pang iba, tulad ng pagulot, pagtari at ano pa.Ngunit ang tatlong ito lang muna ang unahin natin—pagpili, pagkundisyon at pagpatuktok sa araw ng laban.
Pagpili: Susi sa Tagumpay
Ang susi sa matagumpay na pagsasabong ay ang wastong pagpili. Batayan sa pagpili:
Unahin mga konkretong katangian. Ang mga konkretong katangian ay ang bloodline o linyada; pagpapalaki; at ganda ng pisikal na anyo.
Unahin ang mga konkretong katangian dahil hindi na ma-iiba ang mga ito hanggang sa araw ng laban, samantalang ang kagalingan sa pakikipaglaban ay paibaiba,depende sa galing ng kalaban o sa kundisyon ng ating manok.
Kagalingan sa Pakikipaglaban
Ang kagalingan sa bitaw ay mahalaga rin. Kaya sa ating pagpili batay sa kagalingan sa pakikipaglaban tatlo ang ating pamantayan.
1) Cutting ability;
2) Tapang, tibay at lakas;
3) Utak, liksi at bilis.
Cutting ability.
Killing is the name of the game. Kaya ang pinakamahalagang katangian ng manok sa pakikipaglaban ay ang kakayahan nitong pumatay.
Tapang, tibay at lakas.
Ang mga itoy kinakailangan ng manok upang manatili sa laban hanggang sa kahulihulihang sandali. Kailangan magkasama ang tatlong kakayahang ito. Aanhin ang tibay at lakas kung aayaw na ang manok. Aanhin naman ang tapang at lakas kung walang tibay at lugmok o lupaypay kaagad ang manok saunang tama pa lang. Bale wala naman ang tapang at tibay kung walang sapat nalakas ang palo ng manok upang makapatay o makasugat man lang ng malubha sa kalaban.
Utak, liksi at bilis.
Kung ang manok ay matalino, malalaman nito ang dapat gawin sa bawat sitwasyon Ang liksi ang magbibigay paraan upang magawa ng manokang nararapat at ninanais nitong gawin Bilis ang kinakailangan upang magawa ng manok ang dapat gawin bago ito maunahan ng kalaban.
Bagong konsepto sa pagpili:
Katangian, hindi istilo. Mahirap kung istilo ang ating gawing batayan sa pagpili dahil, halimbawa, may abang na magaling, may abang din na mahina.Ganoon din sa mga agresibo, at iba pang mga istilo. Mas bigyan kahalagahan ang mga katangian kaysa istilo.
Cutting ability; tapang, tibay at lakas; at utak,liksi at bilis. Ang mga ito ang mga kanaisnais na katangian na gusto natingtaglay ng manok sa kanyang pakikipaglaban.
Mas mahalaga na taglay ng manok ang mga kanaisnais na mga katangian, na nabanggitnatin, maging ano pa man ang istilo nito sa pakipaglaban.
Makabagong Pamamaraan sa Pagkundisyon
Ang pamamaraan natin sa RB Sugbo sa pagkundisyon ng manok panabong ay medyo naiibasa nakasanayan ng maraming sabungero. Ang sa atin ay hindi 14, 21 o 28-day keep tulad ng sa marami. Sa iba ay may kalendaryo kung saan nakalagay anu-ano ang mga gawain sa bawat araw mula day 1 hanggang araw ng laban.
Ang ganitong pamamaraan ay magandang tingnan sa programa ngunit sa praktikal magkakaproblema dahil sa kawalan ng flexibility. Hindi lahat ng manok ay magkatulad ng reaksyon. Maaring ang iba ay mapaaga ang pag-peak, samantalangang iba naman ay wala pa sa tuktok pagdating ng araw ng laban.
Ang sa atin ay parang hagdanan. Ang lahat ng manok ay dadaan sa unang baitang, ang“foundation stage” kung kailan inaayos natin ang mga kakulangan ng manok sa pisikal, mental at nutrisyunal na aspeto. Inaayos muna natin ang pangangatawan,ang kundisyon ng mga kalamnan at ang pokus ng manok sa pakikipaglaban. Sapuntong ito pinaiiral natin ang tibay at lakas ng manok.
Walang takdang bilang ng araw sa pagpananatili ng manok sa stage na ito. Kung sa ibang pamamaraan, kalendaryo ang nag didikta, sa atin, ang aktwal na kundisyon ng manok ang makapagsasabi kung ang manok ay kailangan pang manatili sa baitang naito o aakyat na sa susunod.
Ang pangalawang baitang ay ang “battle-ready stage.” Dito ang pakain at pagsasanayay nakatuon sa pagpairal ng bilis, liksi, at ang kakayahang makahugot ng quick energy na kakailanganin sa laban. Dito ang mga manok ay para nang boy scout na laging handa. Kung may nalalapit na laban, pagpipilian natin ang mga boy scout kung alinalin ang mga pinakahanda. Ang mga ito ang iakyat sa susunod na baitang, ang “peakingperiod.”
Ang peaking phase ay ang huling isang linggo bago ang laban. Kasunod nito ay angpangapat na stage, ang”pagpatuktok” o “pointing.” Ito ay sa araw ng laban.
Sa sistemang ito ang kundisyon ng manok ang masusunod hindi ang bilang ng araw. Ang sistema nating ito ay tinatawag natin na “conditioning pyramid.”
Araw ng laban
Sa araw ng laban mas maige na maaga pa lang ay nasa sabungan na ang mga manok.Dapat nasa sabungan na sila bago magbukang liwayway.
Dapat po kasi hindi pa nakakakain ang manok ay nakarating na ito dahil kung busog baka hindi ito matunawan pag mastressed sa biyahe. Mas maige rin na madilim paibiyahe ang mga ito upang hindi malikot.
Ang pinakamahalagang dahilan kung bakit mas mabuting maaga dumating ang mga manok sa sabungan ay upang doon na sa sabungan sisimulan ang pagpapatuktok. Mahirap na at baka maudlot ang pagpaptuktok kung sa kalagitnaan ng proseso ay ibibyahe pa ang manok.
Pagdating sa sabungan huwag agad ilabas sa travelling box. Hayaan muna sa isang tabi ang box upang maka-recover ang manok sa pagkahilo sa biyahe.
Pagkalipas ng ilang sandali ilabas ang manok at ilagay sa limber pens. Obserbahan at pagmasdang maige kung walang problema. Timbangin bago pakainin.
Ang dami po ng pakain ay depende kung anong oras ang laban. Kung sa derby hindi iyo gaanong problema kasi may skedyul na maari nating gawing gabay. Kung hakpayt ang laban di natin malalaman ang oras ng laban kaya magkaiba ang pamamaraan sa pagpapatuktok para sa derby at para sa hakpayt.
Ang pakain natin sa araw na ito ay ang pointing feeds na cracked corn, puti ng itlog at pellets. Ang cracked corn ang magbibigay enerhiya dahil mataas ang bahagdan ng carbohydrates at metabolized energy ng mais.
Ang puti ng itlog naman ay upang magbigay ng moisture. Ang pellets ay pampaalis ng body moisture. Ang dami ng puti ng itlog at pellets ay depende sa body moisture ng manok. Kung basa ang katawan ng manok mas maraming pellets ang ibigay. Kung tuyo, mas maraming puti ng itlog.
Pagkatapos mapakain ipasok na sa kulungan ang manok. Takpan natin ng tela upang maging madilim sa loob at makakapagpahinga ang manok.
Ilabas bandang tanghali at ilagay sa limber pen upang makapagbawas. Pagmasdang mabuti ang ipot kung basa o tuyo at gumawa tayo ng adjustment kung kinakailangan. Pagkatapos ibalik sa kulungan. Kung derby at matagal pa ang laban takpan ulit ng tela. Kung hakpayt, huwag na lang dahil hindi magtatagal ay iuulot na natin ito.
Tandaan lang na sa araw ng laban mahalaga ang uri at dami ng pakain, moisture control, at pahinga
